Chef Ebbe Vollmer's eponymous downtown dweller isn't your typical Tampa restaurant. Sleek and contemporary with a space dominated by a U-shaped marble bar, it's hyper-focused with just one tasting menu. Scandinavian elements make their way onto the dishes here, hinting at the chef's Swedish background, and the cooking is both clever and confident without superfluous fuss. Artful plating takes center stage in dishes like the beet roulade with a brown butter and black cherry sauce. Fermented white asparagus beurre mont' and saut'ed spinach make a beautiful base for tender turbot that comes alive with a quenelle of sturgeon caviar. Braised oxtail with'seared foie gras and a brunoise of sunchoke is equally rich and tender.
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